The Weekend Guide to Costalegre

In February 2020, long before I knew just how fortuitous my timing would be, I spent a month solo traveling along Mexico’s Pacific coast. (I know; don’t hate me.) Though my days of traveling alone for weeks at a time are squarely behind me (a girlfriend, dog, cat, work deadlines, etc. will do that to you), there’s one spot I visited on that trip that I couldn’t get out of my head: Costalegre ("happy coast"), an absolutely magical region just south of Puerto Vallarta that thrummed with virgin coastline, friendly people, and thousands upon thousands of acres of protected land and sea. When, 4+ years later, I got the chance to revisit, I’ve never said yes so fast—and y’all, it was even better than I remembered.

Now, unlike some other Mexican destinations that seemingly went from zero to Señor Frog in the blink of an eye, Costalegre is under the care of conservationists at heart who are determined to develop slowly, and with the community’s blessing, and in tiny portions of the land—so, thank God, we’re not about to see all that natural beauty giving way to a Lego-like lineup of glassy chain hotels.

But I do think it won’t be long before the word gets out on Costalegre’s best-kept secret—after all, the new Chalacatepec International Airport is set to begin operations later this year (no more multi-hour drives from Puerto Vallarta!), and crews are on the ground right now building Xala, an eco-conscious $1 billion development that’ll house a Six Senses hotel and spa (scheduled to open in Fall 2026), bespoke residences, restaurants, and tons of jungly and beachy activities, all spanning 3,000 acres (!).

Basically, you can impress all your girlfriends by being the one scheduling the bachelorette trip here instead of Cancun or Cozumel or San Miguel de Allende or the other (lovely, don’t get me wrong!) spots that are becoming old hat. So if you want pristine beaches as far as the eye can see and resorts dotted with neon flowers, cute coatis (sort of a monkey/raccoon mashup), and myriad square miles of unspoiled nature…have I got the destination for you.

Here’s exactly how to spend a sunny spell along Costalegre’s 200+ miles of coastline, rugged cliffs, lush rainforest, and secluded swimming coves.

Where to Stay

Costalegre’s got a growing crop of both luxurious private resorts and more affordable accommodations and activities in small towns along the sea. For celeb-approved luxury that won’t break the bank, book one of 18 candy-bright suites at Las Alamandas, a boho-chic eco-resort on a secluded 2,000-acre estate. You can often nab a garden-view villas for sub-$300 a night (private terrace included), and the boutique property comprises four jaw-dropping private beaches, a sparkling pool, multiple restaurants, a tennis and pickleball court, a gym, and a spa. The glitterati love this spot for its charm and privacy; we spotted signatures in the guestbook from the likes of Jennifer Aniston, Deborah Messing, and a certain last name that rhymes with Shmanderpump…

Careyes is a sprawling community famous for its oceanfront cliffs, bohemian residents, untouched coastline (dolphins and turtles make frequent appearances), and colorful cliffside palaces that make design lovers drool—think midcentury curves, open-air living spaces, and Mediterranean-style finishes. You can stay in a swanky villa worthy of a fashion magazine shoot, get cozy in a colorful casita, or rent a beachside condo at El Careyes Club & Residences. (Shoutout to Casa Aries, a rentable home so arrestingly beautiful I had a minor bougie meltdown over whether to swim in the cliffside infinity pool or sway in an oceanview hammock whilst staying there.)

Don’t leave without visiting the massive Copa Del Sol (they call it a “visual wonder,” and it’s true, “permanent art installation” doesn’t do it justice) and rubbing elbows with Careyes’ homeowners—colorful characters hailing from 44 different countries.

Three cascading infinity pools, private white-sand beaches, a coveted 18-hole golf course, a sprawling spa with a traditional temazcal dome (more on that in a second)—yup, Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo is the spot that’ll make all your Instagram followers green with envy. But it isn’t just the jaw-dropping architecture and luxe amenities that make this resort (opened in 2022) so special; the property’s nestled on 3,000 acres of protected eco-reserve, a home base for diverse flora and fauna (you’ll find the latter in cold-pressed juices, dishes at the restaurants, and even treatments at the spa—’sup, copal) and nature walks led by resident biologists and researchers.

What to Do

You almost can’t help but spot some whales passing through from December to March—keep your eyes on the Pacific and you’ll see the gentle giants spouting water. If you prefer to be up close and personal with the marine life, most resorts will coordinate swimming, snorkeling, or boogie boarding at the beach, too. Pacific Adventures (located in the town of Melaque) organizes surfing, snorkeling, and stand-up paddleboarding expeditions along the coast. Of note: Melaque is right next to Cuastecomates, the state’s first handicap-accessible beach and town, with a waterfront wooden boardwalk, adapted wheelchairs, signs in Braille, tactile paving on streets, and more.

Land creatures are more your thing? If you’re visiting Costalegre between November and April, check out the Careyes Polo Club—the community has two regulation polo fields and stables for 150 horses, and polo matches (check the calendar!) bring in very talented, very hot athletes from around the world.

While the spa at the Four Seasons Tamarindo offers the usual slew of luxe massages and treatments (all bookable even if you’re not staying on-property), the soothing space also features an igloo-shaped outdoor hut for a super traditional Mexican ritual: temazcal. Temazcal has been a part of Mexican and South American culture for more than a millennium, and at Tamarindo, it’s a shaman-led, two-ish-hour ceremony taking place both inside and out of the domed lodge heated by hot volcanic rocks. Expect sweat, tears, chanting, and an utterly unique experience designed to leave you spiritually cleansed.

Where to Eat

Unless you’re showing up via private jet, helicopter, or yacht (which, respect), Costalegre is a bit of a drive from the Puerto Vallarta airport—plan for a few hours on a winding road cut into the Jurassic-Park-like landscape. So we recommend fueling up for the journey with a stop at Hacienda de Oro at the Vallarta Botanical Gardens in Cabo Corrientes. It’s at the northern tip of Costalegre, making it a perfect pit stop as you make your way down the coast. Sorry, designated drivers, but the vanilla mojito—using vanilla beans from their site!—is incredible.

With tables and lounge chairs sprinkled along a cheery stretch of seafront, Lilo’s Beach Club in Careyes fuses Mexican and Mediterranean gastronomy—the kind of place where elevated hummus and guacamole coexist on the table, and the wood-fired pizzas on the menu are every bit as delicious as the tacos and tostadas. Don’t skip the grilled-pineapple cheesecake; I’m still thinking about it.