The Unending Allure of a Beat-Up Birkin Bag

The Hermès Birkin bag surpassed the definition of "accessory" long ago. "Fashion legend" is more accurate. It has its own mythical origin story involving a chance meeting between French actress Jane Birkin and Hermès executive chairman Jean-Louis Dumas and an incredibly exclusive selection process that's lasted since its 1984 release. (You have to be invited to buy one.) Celebrities' collections of rare Birkin bags, from Jennifer Lopez's Himalayan to Victoria Beckham's $82,500 rendition, are the subjects of endless fascination and envy. This year, as a bag charm trend inspired by Birkin, the person, has taken off, it even earned its own verb: to "Birkin-ify," or to make a bag look well-loved and worn-in with charms, silk scarves, and intentional distressing.

Since one cannot simply walk into the Hermès flagship on Madison Avenue and purchase a Birkin bag—even if they have between $15,000 and $20,000 burning a hole in the pocket of their Loro Piana cashmere sweatpants—fashion fans have to resort to other means. Some are willing to splurge on "superfakes," or very convincing dupes. Others who want the real deal dip into the world of resale—where even used Birkin bags with noticeable signs of wear are now regularly fetching five-figure prices.

Part of a Birkin's allure is getting the privilege to wear one in. To fling it down on the sidewalk next to you at an outdoor café, to rest it in the crook of your arm until it molds to its shape. Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen were the poster-sisters for carrying their Birkins in a way that showed they were loved—until they designed a quiet luxury competitor, the Margaux bag. As such, shoppers are embracing pre-loved versions that give them a taste of J.Lo or Posh Spice styling, even if they cost just as much as a fresh one.

Cory Ransom, director of brand marketing at Fashionphile, tells me 30 percent of Hermès sales on the platform this year are of bags in "Very Good" or "Good" condition, a designation including slight scratches, fading, or peeling. Sought-after styles with developed patina on the platform include the Hermès Togo Birkin 35 and the Hermès Box Kelly Sellier 32.

"Hermès shoppers have shown particular interest in classic styles that age gracefully, especially in timeless neutrals and durable leathers," Ransom says. "While these bags may show minimal signs of previous use, they maintain their iconic elegance and structural integrity."

Birkin bags hold up, even when they're being used like a dog carrier (as Ciara does with her Birkin 50), traveling all over the world (as they do with Brooke Shields), or making their way into an offline fashion lover's closet. "Today's luxury shoppers are embracing pre-owned bags with character for both practical and mindful reasons," Ransom says. "While giftable and new items remain popular, there's a growing appreciation for bags that show love from their previous lives—they often come with significant savings." Of course, savings are relative in the world of rare designer bags. Many of the Hermès Birkins listed on Fashionphile cost between $13,000 and $25,000.

The bag expert adds that the rise in pre-Birkin-ified Birkins is a sign of conscious consumption. "Many shoppers see choosing pre-owned luxury as a smart way to acquire beautiful pieces while making more sustainable choices. Whether it's a Chanel bag with subtle corner wear or a vintage Hermès with a natural patina, these pieces tell a story while offering remarkable value."

This twist on prestige shopping echoes the intentionally dirty designer jeans J.Lo often wears or the pre-distressing found on sneakers from Golden Goose. They come to shoppers with backstory built-in. Of course, none of these inventions have the actual history of the eternal It-bag: New or used, a Birkin is a Birkin.