Peplum Tops Deserve Better—This Maligned Silhouette Is Chic, Not Cringe
In defense of the fit and flare.
Today's trend cycle is a machine operating at breakneck speed. Fashion's preoccupation with the Hot Aughts, undeniably the most influential era of recent seasons, is cooling as the blinged-and-bedazzled look has already lost its luster. Thus, onto the next epoch: Now, 2010s fashion is starting to resurge and the decade's sartorial signatures are coming back into play, even those once dubbed "so cringe-y it hurts": Ballet flats are a dominant 2023 shoe trend with universal appeal; Gen Z's remixing the business casual M.O. by wearing sneakers to work and blazers to the club: and perhaps most surprising is that peplum tops, the poufy and admittedly polarizing silhouette, are back on the runways.
Brands including Brandon Maxwell, Richard Quinn, Proenza Schouler, and Tove all showed variations of the fit-and-flare, some sleek and tailored, others more romantic and frilly, in their Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Jonathan Anderson, ever the out-of-the-box thinker, has a love for peculiar peplums: See the camel sweater fit with a fluffy, feathered waistline in his eponymous label's fall edit or the feminine cargo jackets that resembled 17th-century panniers of Loewe's Spring/Summer 2023. Miu Miu's spring '23 edit followed a similar theme of girly-meets-gorpcore, featuring details like pocketed peplum belts that remixed the flouncy silhouette in Miuccia Prada's signature ugly-chic method.
"The old adage that nothing is new and every look gets recycled seems to be holding true—and the pace at which we return to past styles seems to be accelerating," comments fashion historian and museum curator Michelle Tolini Finamore, Ph.D. And while it wasn't that long ago when we saw Jil Sander and Alexander McQueen's nipped-then-flouncy blouses on the runway, or you were reaching for that skin-tight, scuba-like ruffle blouse on repeat, it's always fun to reminisce on yesteryear. "So much of the return to vintage style is rooted in nostalgia, and perhaps the 2010s already feel like a much simpler time," thus inciting "the faster return to the peplum trend," Finamore theorizes. However, the historian notes that the peplum silhouette has roots extending much, much farther than the 2010s.
Peplums from Lanvin, Jil Sander, Alexander McQueen, and Stella McCartney in Spring/Summer 2010 and Fall/Winter 2010 collections.
"The word 'peplum' comes from the Greek word' peplos,' which referred to a full-length tubular garment and kept its associations with fashion throughout history," Finamore explains. Oh, but there's more: "In the early 20th century, the innovative designer Mariano Fortuny's finely pleated silk columnar gowns (a precursor to Issey Miyake!) were called 'Peplos' dresses when they had a belted overtunic, which formed a peplum below the waist. And Christian Dior's post-World War II New Look, which featured a cinched waist and corseted bodice, ushered in a revival of the peplum—especially the Bar Jacket, with its padded hips that accentuated the wasp waist of this overtly feminine silhouette."
Now, we have today's iterations—cinched-in crepe blouses by The Row, Cecilie Bahnsen's cupcake-like tunics, and Batsheva's prairie-girl peplums—which offer even more of a well-rounded presentation. And before the industry inexorably moves on and puts another bygone trend in peplum's place, take this moment to reflect on the waist-defining style. Don't you find "cringe-y" too harsh a word for the humble fit-and-flare? As Finamore outlines, its influence and place in fashion's history is prolific. Thus, to lump all peplum tops into the same category as those you shopped at Forever 21 over a decade ago call is somewhat reductive. After all, you wouldn't call Dior's New Look, which celebrated femininity and altered the course of the industry, controversial or—gulp—tacky, would you?
Ahead, find a roundup of the best peplum tops of 2023 that make a case for why the style has been wrongly maligned over time. Because, as history and recent runways show, when crafted with intention and quality craftsmanship, the flared silhouette is undeniably chic.
The Best Peplum Tops
Perfect for a summer garden party or upscale brunch, J. Crew's strapless peplum is a style with lots of mileage. The top's ornate floral pattern is from the sustainable Italian print house Ratti, which has been offering luxury motifs and prints since 1945. Also to note: this piece is made from 100-percent organic cotton that was grown without the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Consider styling this with a streamlined column skirt and slingback heels for a formal pairing.
Danish designer Cecilie Bahsen is known for her full-femme pieces that look like fairy tale confections. This darling top with a ruffled waist and a dramatic back bow is quintessential of her aesthetic, which feels like the sartorial equivalent of a sweet tooth. Oh, and did you notice that the top is in digital lavender, one of summer 2023's foremost color trends? Dress this flouncy number down with a pair of worn-in jeans and the best summer shoe: easy slip-on sandals.
This $20—!—peplum top by everyone's favorite affordable retailer, H&M, will easily become the superstar of your summer nighttime wardrobe. It's begging to be worn for an evening spent slurping oysters and sipping summer cocktails. Listen closely: can't you hear it whispering, "Add me to your cart and then take me out for happy hour martinis?" Style the twisty tank with khaki cargo pants and your favorite black sneakers for an unexpected combo that merges utility with frivolous fun.
Scandi label TOVE's pieces perfectly epitomize strategic minimalism, a style movement that centers on classics with a cool-girl twist. Its Tamie top is a perfect example of the aesthetic in action. Made of a crisp organic white cotton, the strapless top features a fitted bodice, a front twist detail along the bust (a signature TOVE code), and, of course, a sturdy flare hem. Team this clean white top with black cropped trousers, ballet flats, and piled-on silver jewelry.
You know Farm Rio for its kaleidoscopic and tropical prints that are the visual equivalent of a fresh piña colada. This black tank top obviously does not fall into that colorful camp. But it still features details that remind you it was made by the dopamine-inducing brand: the cute tie straps, eyelet fabric, pintuck strips, and—yup, you guessed it—the peplum flare. As for styling this sweet style, reach for your best linen pants, and why not try an espadrille sandal made in straw and leather?
Batsheva is not a brand for the faint of heart or those fearful of a quirky statement. The founder of the New York City-based label, Batsheva Hay, designs for the fashion freaks of the world (that's a compliment—most of fashion's most influential style icons fall into the category)—and the Nia Top from her collab with the textile label Laura Ashley exudes the ideal kitschy cuteness. Made of a cotton poplin in a prairie-like dark floral, the peplum top features cuff ruffles and three front-and-center bows.
If you've grown tired of your basic button-downs and want to experiment with your workwear without skewing too far off the HR-approved dress code, try an option like Co's peplum shirt. The cotton style keeps a polished and preppy feel but with a fashion-forward, masculine-meets-feminine twist. Oh, and it's on super, super sale for only $223, which is a major steal considering it originally retails for just under $500. Need outfit inspo? Team ti with slim-fitting trousers and dark leather trousers.
Here's another softly romantic peplum top. BP.'s summery piece boasts ballooning puff sleeves and a front-tie keyhole cutout. Also note the shirred back, which offers easy comfort. And if you have too much white in your wardrobe and want to seek out more color, opt for the lilac colorway, instead. Whichever one you pick up, try styling with trendy denim—like a maxi skirt or cargo jeans—and pointed-toe sandals.
Yet another peplum piece from a Scandi label (those Danes sure have perfected eccentric elegance)! This GANNI top is an ideal addition to your casual summer-style rotation. It's made of 100-percent cotton denim and features front-tie details that offer a flirty flash of skin. Oh, and it's a perfect opportunity to try one of summer's most ubiquitous patterns: stripes. If you're feeling up for the challenge, try your hand at a Canadian tuxedo and pair this peplum with your favorite jeans in a medium wash.
Remember what Finamore said about Mariano Fortuny's ornately pleated silk gowns, the 'Peplos' dresses? This Banana Republic top serves as a great homage to the moment in the peplum top's history. It features a tightly-pleated bodice, dramatic puff sleeves (because who doesn't love some sartorial drama?), and a sweet scoop neck. You can snag it in black, too, if the dark shade blends better with your personal color palette. Try styling the girly blouse with a flowy silk-satin maxi skirt and strappy heeled sandals.
Meet the Expert
Michelle Tolini Finamore is a Fashion and Design Historian, Curator and Author. She has curated numerous exhibitions, including the recently opened Fashioning America: Grit to Glamour at the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art. She has written numerous books and articles for both the scholarly and popular press on topics as varied as fashion in silent film, menswear, contemporary fashion, and sustainability. Michelle has taught courses on fashion, design, and film history at Northeastern University, Rhode Island School of Design, Massachusetts College of Art, and the Fashion Institute of Technology.
