I Tried Biologique Recherche's Two-Hour Scalp Detox Treatment
Is the French-girl favorite worth the hype?
Just as a garden will not flourish without healthy soil, the same is true for your hair and scalp. Sure, those tomato plants you impulse purchased over the summer may whither and droop, but with the proper scalp care routine, the health of your hair will remain ripe for growth (not to mention shine, body, bounce, and more). That's why I'm so hesitant to admit that my scalp doesn't receive as much love as it should, other than the occasional clarifying shampoo rinse in the shower. So when cult-favorite beauty brand Biologique Recherche invited me to the Paul Labrecque Salon & Skincare Spa in NYC for a "scalp experience" and styling session, my dry, lackluster hair, and occasionally itchy scalp, demanded that I check it out.
The French girl-favorite is well known for its skincare essentials, including the notorious Lotion P50, an exfoliating toner more than a few celebrities claim is responsible for their otherworldly glow. But the brand also offers a P50 formula for the scalp, Lotion Capillaire P50, as well as an entire hair care range dedicated to the health of both hair and scalp. I also heard rumors that the signature hair treatment includes a ten-minute head massage, which was more than enough for me to race to midtown Manhattan for my appointment.
I started my treatment by chatting about the state of my rib-skimming hair with veteran stylist Frederic Moine. Considering I'm months overdue for a haircut and deeply dedicated to blonde highlights every three months (which severely dry out your hair), my strands definitely needed a little love. Plus, as the seasons change, my skin and scalp are more prone to inflammation, and he reaffirmed that the five-step scalp detox treatment would work wonders to soothe and revitalize both. So it was off to the wash bowl for a quick rinse and then back to the chair to apply the Lotion Capillaire P50.
Moine used a slim syringe to painstakingly dispense the lotion—which contains exfoliating apple cider vinegar, horseradish, lemon, sage, myrrh and burdock extracts, witch hazel, and purifying poly-alpha-beta hydroxy complex—along my roots. To my surprise and delight, it didn't have the tell-tale garbage juice aroma of its skincare cousin (although I couldn't exactly smell my own scalp to double check). Then he encouraged me to settle in for a ten minute head massage to fully saturate my scalp. Using firm pressure, he gently rubbed and pressed my head while I...did nothing but enjoy; my eyelids closed shut the entire time. (What a treat!) Then we returned to the bowl to rinse and review all of my scalp buildup washing down the drain. (How humbling!)
Back at the chair again, Moine applied a generous coat of the Masque Dermo-Apaisant to my roots, which is not the typical spot for a hair mask. This would help to moisturize my scalp and soothe any lingering irritation, he said. Considering I had been wearing a beanie all day prior to this appointment, my head was, in fact, rather itchy. To encourage my scalp to absorb the calming ingredients even further, the stylist raked my hair into a twist, piled it under a shower cap, and led me to an old-fashioned hair dryer hood to marinate for ten more minutes
Finally, it was time to shampoo. He used the Shampooing Traitant VIP O2, which contains silk extracts, antioxidants, and energizing properties for hair and scalp. It also delivers a delicious creamy lather without stripping your hair or skin. Then in lieu of a traditional conditioner, Moine coated my hair with Crème de Soin to strengthen, smoothe, and seal the ends. After another few minutes, we rinsed with cold water (he reminded me to never shower with too hot water, which can leave your hair cuticles open and prone to frizz) and we returned to the chair a final time to style.
To style, Moine spritzed my hair from root-to-tip with Lotion Kéractive, a nourishing leave-in treatment with heat protectant properties. Then he blow dried my wavy hair straight (since I never try to do it myself) with a bit of an undone curl at the ends. By the time he finished—a whopping two hours later—I couldn't stop running my hands through my silky soft hair. My scalp felt cleaner than it had in months, with zero dryness or irritation, and my blonde color looked shockingly shiny, even though I haven't gotten a touch-up in months. The bounce and body was also so delightfully weightless; my hair looked beautifully windblown before I even left the building.
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The entire detox treatment is definitely a luxury at $150, but not the most expensive two hours you could spend on your hair by far, especially in New York City. I also think I visited the salon at the perfect time, when the seasons are changing and my scalp is particularly sensitive. So if you feel like channeling your inner French girl and treating your scalp and hair to both a chic blowout and an intensive detox, this Biologique Recherche option might be the way to go.
Shop My Recommendations for a Hair and Scalp Detox at Home
Hannah Baxter is the Beauty Director at Marie Claire. She has previously held roles at The Zoe Report, Coveteur, and Bust Magazine, covering beauty, wellness, fashion, and lifestyle. Her writing has appeared in Harper's Bazaar, Allure, The Cut, Elle, InStyle, Glamour, Air Mail, Vogue, Architectural Digest, Byrdie, Nylon and more. She is also the founder of Anxiety Beer, a bi-monthly newsletter about the intersection of culture and mental health. In her spare time you can catch her reading too many overdue library books, thrifting, or hanging with her hairless cat, Norman. You can find her on Instagram and TikTok @hannahbaxward.
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